Philadelphia Food Scene Heats Up: Malgudi Cafe and Tlali Top This Week’s ‘Best Eats’ List
The Philadelphia Inquirer’s food team has released its latest dispatch on the region’s standout dining experiences for the week of February 14, 2026, highlighting a diverse mix of suburban gems and high-profile city collaborations. This week’s “Best Things We Ate” column steers gourmands toward the comfortable warmth of South Indian porridge in Exton and the authentic Poblano flavors of a new Upper Darby BYOB, signaling a continued shift of culinary excitement toward the suburbs.
Deep Dive: The Standout Dishes
Leading the list is the Bisi Bele Bath at Malgudi Cafe in Exton, Pennsylvania. This traditional dish from the Karnataka state in Southern India is described by the critics as a “comforting porridge” composed of rice and lentils, deeply seasoned with spices. Unlike the more ubiquitous tikka masalas or northern curries often found in American Indian restaurants, Bisi Bele Bath offers a distinct regional profile that emphasizes the interplay of textures and the warmth of black pepper and cumin.
Another major highlight is Tlali, a newly minted “Delco restaurant gem” in Upper Darby. Operated by the Sandoval brothers—veterans of some of Philadelphia’s most renowned contemporary kitchens—Tlali sees the chefs returning to their roots. The restaurant focuses on the “homey comforts of traditional Poblano flavors,” bringing a sophisticated yet personal touch to the Mexican BYOB scene in Delaware County.
The report also flagged two other significant plates that defined the week: a “perfect order of crab cakes” and a “goat curry from a vaunted collab.” While the specific venues for these dishes were noted as part of the broader dining week, they underscore a trend of high-execution seafood and chef-driven partnerships dominating the current conversation.
Background and Context
The prominence of Malgudi Cafe illustrates a growing appetite for hyper-regional Indian cuisine in the Greater Philadelphia area. Exton and the surrounding western suburbs have quietly become incubators for specific South Indian culinary traditions, moving beyond generic menus to offer dishes like ragi mudde and bisi bele bath that cater to both the diaspora and adventurous eaters.
Similarly, Tlali’s opening in Upper Darby reinforces the borough’s status as a dining destination. Historically known for its diverse international food scene, Upper Darby is increasingly attracting chef-driven concepts that might otherwise have opened in Center City, driven by lower rents and a receptive local community.
Objections and Considerations
While the food receives high praise, the location of these highlights may pose logistical challenges for city-dwelling diners. A trip to Malgudi Cafe in Exton can take upwards of 45 minutes to an hour from Center City, making it less of a casual dinner option and more of a planned excursion. Furthermore, the “vaunted collab” nature of the goat curry highlights a recurring frustration in the modern food scene: the fleeting nature of some of the best dishes, which often appear only at limited-time pop-ups or special events, potentially locking out diners who cannot book immediately. Additionally, diners visiting BYOB spots like Tlali must remember to plan their alcohol pairings in advance, a quirk of Pennsylvania’s liquor laws that can catch visitors off guard.
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