The best things we ate this week
The Philadelphia Inquirer’s food team—Michael Klein, Kiki Aranita, and Beatrice Forman—has released its latest roundup of standout dishes from across the city, highlighting a Filipino twist on a chain-restaurant classic, a sophisticated mousse in Kensington, and perfectly charred seafood in Northern Liberties.
The “Bloom Shroom” at Manong (Fairmount)
In a playful nod to the Outback Steakhouse “Bloomin’ Onion,” Manong serves the “Bloom Shroom,” a dish that reimagines the deep-fried classic with enoki mushrooms. The mushrooms are fried until crunchy and seasoned with nori and garlic, then served with a side of salsa rosada (a mayo-ketchup blend).
Background Info: Manong recently opened in the former Tela’s space in Fairmount and describes itself with a “Filipino Outback” concept, blending traditional Filipino flavors with approachable, fun presentations.
Objections: While the “Filipino Outback” marketing hook is catchy, some diners might find the concept slightly gimmicky. However, early reviews suggest the execution of dishes like the Bloom Shroom elevates the idea beyond mere novelty.
Creamy Mousse with Mini Waffles at Emmett (Olde Kensington)
At Emmett, one of the city’s newest and most talked-about openings, the team highlights a dish described as “creamy mousse with the cutest mini waffles.” This pairing adds a textural contrast to the smooth, rich mousse, fitting the restaurant’s “upscale grandmother” aesthetic.
Background Info: Emmett is a Levantine-inspired restaurant that has quickly garnered national attention, including a spot on Esquire’s* list of Best New Restaurants. It serves a menu influencing French, Italian, and North African cuisines.
Objections: As a newly anointed “hot spot” with national press, securing a reservation at Emmett can be difficult. The menu’s high-concept approach (e.g., “lamb fat-washed rye cocktails”) might also feel overly trendy to some traditionalists.
Succulent Octopus at Apricot Stone (Northern Liberties)
For a lighter but equally flavorful option, the team points to the charred octopus at Apricot Stone. The tentacle is grilled to a “succulent” texture and served atop a bed of French lentil salad, offering a balance of smokiness and earthiness.
Background Info: Apricot Stone is a beloved BYOB in Northern Liberties known for its authentic Armenian and Mediterranean cuisine. It has long been a neighborhood staple for dishes like manti (dumplings) and kebabs.
Objections: As a BYOB, diners need to remember to bring their own wine or beer, which can be an inconvenience for those used to full-service bar dining. Additionally, octopus is a protein that can easily be overcooked and rubbery, though Apricot Stone is praised for getting it right.
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